Distance cycled in period : 717 km. Overall : 3,299 km
The last few weeks have taken me through Macedonia and along the southern coastline of Greece as I complete my march across the mother continent and onto oriental pastures new. My journey towards the border to Macedonia from Albania however was halted by a 700m climb which would last all day. The first 50km would see me achieve a hard earned 300m of altitude before being dropped down to the same level I had started from that morning. However the real challenge stood at the end of the day. I had an inkling that trouble was brewing when all the villagers at the foot of the climb ran out to the roadside to cheer me on, Tour de France style, before the inevitable struggle that lay ahead. The damned thing instantly kicked up to over 10% and obviously since I was keen to show how easy I was finding it in front of the onlookers I had no option but to to strain every sinew as I side winded and muscled my way up the road until I could take a break away from prying eyes. After a 500m ascent that never really relented, and being fasttracked through the customs queue in the special pedestrians and cyclists line (strangely no other pedestrians or cyclists had bothered making the walk up…) I finally made it to Macedonia’s lake side town Ohrid the next morning, which is a pictueresque hippy settlement set in the old city walls in front of a lake by the same name.
I have then spent the last few days and weeks taking on easy but long climbs on my way to Greece’s main crossroads along its south coast, the country’s second biggest city and student hub, Thessaloniki. I guess Rome just sounded snappier for the famous adage, but with travellers in Greece unable to travel overland from town to town without suffering long detours to this island of Sirens, all roads lead to Thessaloniki would be equally apt.
I must admit my experience of cycling in Greece has been somewhat disappointing though. The scenery was steady but not spectacular. The people weren’t overly friendly (FYI the tried and tested litmus test for this judgement is seeing how many car drivers hoot and wave at me in support as they go by). And the two main options for cycling were along the flat busy main roads which inevitably turned long days in the sun ever longer through monotony and a lack of freewheeling down hills – or to go off piste and follow in the churned up plough marks of the farmers’ tractors on mud tracks up f*** off steep hills, and spending twice as long to cover the same distance being the reward for your endeavours. Plus the dogs out here are big. Mean. And travel in packs. My google maps inspired back route into Thessaloniki had me tiptoeing through trailer trash communities built around the city’s sprawling industrial estates, and the dogs could not believe their eyes when they saw my pack animal of a bike squeaking it’s way unbeknownst straight towards them…
I will say though that Greek food, along with Albanian, has been my favourite during this trip – and I didn’t think I would ever be uttering those words before I left blighty, what with France and Italy on the itinerary! Also, it may be crude to say – but the Greek women are just absolutely stunning. Many a night in the Thessaloiniki hostel was spent discussing the merits and wonder of the local gene pool…
I also had my most major run in to date with a scary creepy crawlie, the causer of all mans downfall, namely the horrible wriggly snake. I had seen a dead snake being devoured by flies only minutes before (the weird combination of beautiful countrysides and death seem to go hand in hand when you follow the hard shoulder for months on end) – and this should have acted as a warning to stay alert. Eventually I look up at the road and there is a snake on my side of the road near the centre. I have seen it too late to swerve so I end up cycling between the snake, who is by now rather concerned by my presence, and the safety of the roadside. As the little critter makes a dive for the hedgerows I pedal into the quickly shrinking gap, Indiana Jones style, literally screaming like a little girl. Thankfully I get past him with cms to spare and had to stop for a breather to get my heart rate down afterwards. God damn I hate those sidewinding mofos…
Google maps continues to be an absolute terrier when it comes to rout choices. On the border crossing from Macedonia to Greece it lead me down some rut filled dust bowl road until finally I was met with signs of no entry when the border arrived, forcing me into a long backtrack and journey through the mud and puddles of a farmers field before I could get back to a normal road. Also, as I was close to reaching the Turkish border, I decided to go for a google maps interesting route day. You know it’s interesting when you have to really really zoom in before you can see a road on the route at all, and it is paramount that one is mentally prepared for what you are almost certainly letting yourself in for. Sometimes the routes are epic and away from traffic with stunning scenery. This was one of the other times. It took me onto progressively less ‘roady’ tracks until the path just stopped and turned into grass and trees on the side of a mountain surrounded by other mountains. I backtracked a bit until I saw a seriously steep footpath going down to the valley floor and towards the road .google wanted me on There was no way I could carry my bike back up the hill if the route didn’t work out without taking off the pannier bags and hauling everything up in about three loads… but I went for it anyway and thank god I finally found the path google wanted me on. Not a path in the traditional sense but some nutter at Google HQ on his last day of work probably had scouted it out and deemed it usable.
Onto turkey next. A continent has been completed and the most adventurous part of my trip lies ahead as I take on Asia! Can. No. Wait!
